Day 8: Paralia - Elassona

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Distance - 92 km
Total Distance - 518 km
Altitude Gain - 1212 m

It seems to be a tradition on a cycling trip that when you want to leave early, there's a problem. And of course, as I hate to break tradition, this is what happened to me today. I managed to get ready really quickly after my 5am wake up call, and as I was about to leave at 7 am, I realised that sod's law would raise its ugly head once more. Remember that puncture? Well, it was back again. I'd actually noticed it yesterday afternoon and once again took my inner rube out of the tyre, plunged it in a bucket and looked for tiny bubbles. I found some - coming out of the valve. "Aha!" I said to myself, "Looks like a broken valve." So I threw the inner tube away (it's impossible to mend a valve) and replaced it. So you can imagine how surprised and annoyed I was this morning to see that I'd lost a significant amount of air overnight in a new inner tube. This was really weird and I decided to wait until the bike shop in Katerini opened to see if they could help. The guy couldn't find anything in my tyre either, so he suggested that I filled my inner tube with a sealant. This we did, and it seems to work (at least on the front tyre).
On leaving the shop I realised I didn't have my hat. So I re-traced my steps of the morning to see if I'd dropped it somewhere - but no luck. This really irritated me. I liked my hat! And more to the point I really need it in this heat. But it was lost and that was it. I had to get a move on quick as it was already 10 am and the start of the climb was 20 kms away. I considered staying another night in Katerini - but no, common sense didn't prevail and I pushed on later than I wanted and without my Indianna Jones hat.

The road  leading to the climb

At 11 am I started climbing. I knew it was the climb because it was exactly what I was expecting: the gradient of the road abruptly went up to 8% and it wasn't long before it was at 10%, all with switchbacks, which can get really steep on the inside, so I did my usual trick of cutting the corner to the other side of the road (I check for cars, of course!). Very soon I was using my granny gears, which I usually avoid, but on a fully loaded touring bike on a road like this granny gears are more than a comfort - they are absolutely indispensable. I stopped in the little town of Fotina for water. Here people drinking coffee in a bar outside waved and shouted encouragement. I sure needed that encouragement now. For, as the guy in the cycling shop had warned me, it instantly got very hard. Here the road was averaging between 10 and 12% for around two kilometres - and that's with cutting across the switchbacks. If a car comes from behind and you're forced to stick to the inside, Lordy only knows how steep it can get (I estimate 16% + !). But today was my lucky day. There were very few cars and so I was allowed to cheat.

 Looking towards Mount Olympus

Once those two kilometres were done and the climb had slackened, I decided to stop under the shade for five minutes. It was now noon and I did not want to get heat exhaustion. The views on Olympus were stunning, so I took some photos. Then it was off again. Slightly less gradient now but still averaging around 8% and it stayed that way for a while. I stopped at a spring and filled my water bottles. Beautiful cool spring water from Olympus. But this was the only fountain on the entire climb that actually had water in it. I noticed two others later on, but they were dry. Three water bottles might definetely be sensible for this route.

 The best water I've ever tasted! But it was unfortunately the only spring that wasn't dried up

At around 600 metres in altitude I noticed that the temperature was significantly lower. This was a relief, as was the refreshing breeze. But I was soon to curse that breeze, for as I climbed higher and higher the breeze turned into a head-wind. I slipped back into my granny gears, concentrated on the spectacular scenary and pressed on. I was enjoying this! Really I was!
At 750 m in altitude I arrived in the village of Ag Dimitrios. More waving, more encouragement, a kid cycles after me and is proud to say "Hello". I felt like a celebrety. But I don't suppose the folk of Ag Dimitrios are used to seeing fully loaded touring bikes passing through their village.

One of the many well-wishers I passed offered to take my photo

At 800 metres in altitude the wind was really strong. Impossible to ignore and still 200 metres of climbing left. I stopped, ate another banana (the fourth in the day!), took some photos and continued. Then the road became really steep again. Averaging 10% coupled with the wind made me feel grateful to Banana Power.

The wind swept, harsh scenary at around 800m

Another bike photo

Looking down the road from where I'd come. The wind was starting to become a problem

But steep climbs are fast climbs and before I knew it I'd arrived at the top. It was now 2 pm, I'd been climbing three hours with four bags and a tent in a headwind. And how was my back? Fine. Nothing. To think that just a few weeks ago I could hardly walk...the miracle of bicycle healing!

The top! Shame about the graffiti!

The road back down. The fun part!

Then it was down the other side. Oh boy I love descents! Even if I hated ascents, I'd still climb mountains to feel the thrill of freewheeling down a mountain. Views open up and change really fast, at each hairpin bend a new panorama, and the rush of wind past your ears. There is nothing in the world I find so exhilerating as this!
But the descent wasn't in one part but two. First from the summit where Mount Olympus stands high and proud; then 12 kms of flat on very poor, rough road surface that makes progress hard work; then a thrilling descent into Elassona past countryside that reminded me of Sicily.
So, that's it. The longest and hardest climb done. And would I do it again? Too darn right I would! - but earlier in the morning.

The view from behind. It took a few attempts to get this photo right!

The other side of the Olympus range is very agricultural

Scenery that reminded me of Sicily

Anyway, I found a motel here (no campsites) and guess what happened! Another puncture - back wheel this time. Still, it was my fault. I really shouldn't have ridden on the stone drive leading to the motel!