Day 7 - Rest

After a great night's sleep (the camping site is very quiet) I spent most of the morning in an Internet café. Despite the fact that this town is very geared towards the tourist, I found it surprisingly difficult to find a reliable wifi connection. So I took the opportunity to do a bit of housework on the blog, notably putting the photos in the right order. Then it was off to the supermarket to find food for tomorrow. I probably bought too much - but I'd hate to have climbed the mountain only to find that there are no shops open. I know that's very improbable, but I always prefer to prepare for the worst on a ride of this nature. I will no doubt get hungry quickly, so the weight should soon start to lighten.

Paralia Katerini - a popular seaside resort. Not to my liking, but on a much smaller scale than Rimmini, in Italy for example.

As for the afternoon, I didn't do very much: just read and talked politics with the son of the owner of the campsite. Interesting chap with some interesting ideas. He believes that the Greek people are under such a strain that they will rise up, but not in revolution, rather that they will abandon capitalism and move to an alternative economy based on the exchange of commodities and skills. He certainly gave me a lot to think about tomorrow as I brave the steepest and longest climb of the trip.
In the evening, I was invited to sit down and have a chat with the couple who I'd camped next door to. It was another one of those 'encounters' that make touring on a bike really interesting. The man, Constantin, apparently created a pacifist movement in the 1990s in Romania. Through this organisation, he met many interesting and famous people. I'll spare his blushes by naming who he's met, but as he tried to bring peace during the Balkans conflict that was raging at the time, it goes without saying that he's had meetings with some of the very powerful people of the day. Apart from the problems of International peace and racism, we also talked about his home country, Romania. I've had the idea of visiting Romania on my mind for a long time, I've always known it to be a beautiful place, but after hearing what Constantin had to say about it, I'm now really impatient to go there.

Constantin and Victoria: a couple I really hope to meet again one day

Constantin took this photo of me

Anyway, back to my cycle tour. The aim for tomorrow is to get to Elassona - no further. It's only about 80 kms, but I don't want to push it further in one day - the ride from Elassona to Meteora will also be very challenging. So, with any luck tomorrow I'll be posting from Elassona with lots of stunning photographs and I won't be back here after having abandonned this category 2 climb on a fully loaded touring bike! Wish me luck!

Day 6: Néa Kaliktratia - Palaria near Katerini

View Day 6: Néa Kaliktratia - Palaria near Katerini in a larger map

Distance -152 km (with 40 km by train)
Total distance - 427 km
Altitude Gain - 506 m


My ultimate objective for today was to get as close to Katerini as I could. This is so I could start the longest of my climbs as early as possible the following day to avoid the heat.
I started cycling at 7.30 am after a surprisingly good night's sleep. Like the last time I was on that campsite, the volume of the music from the bar wasn't too loud (despite my fears). I haven't yet encountered the ultra-loud music that was such a problem for me in Spain and Italy - dare I hope it'll stay that way? In Epanomi, which is about 20 kms from the campsite, I stopped for breakfast and had to ask the way as there were absolutely no signs and this small town has a one-way street system as complicated as any I've seen in any big city. As the serving lady was explaining an elderly man stopped and then re-explained the direction to me. He then sat down at my table and asked me where I was from, what I did for a living etc. He then started talking about his two sons who he was obviously very proud of: one, an engineer who lives in Crete; the other, who works for the European Commission in Brussels. This of course led to him talking about the problems Greece is facing right now etc, etc...I started to feel that I wasn't going to get to Katerini today! But I liked talking with this man. He was really very pleasant and interesting and it was difficult for me to pull away.

I eventually did say goodbye and it wasn't long before I found myself back in Thessaloniki. I'd totally lost all notion of time and forgot it was Sunday. This meant of course that both the bike shop and the camping shop were closed. A shame.
The road that I wanted to take out of Thessaloniki was terribly difficult to find and it took me well over an hour to find it. I was very glad it was Sunday, as the road was very fast and dangerous. But I wasn't on it for long. Soon I was cycling through villages and heading south.

A statue of Alexander the Great in  Thessaloniki

At one point I stopped to check my map when I heard from the other side of the road someone shout "Do you need any help?" It was a girl standing in front of a petrol station - she clearly worked there. I didn't feel I needed help, but I did need water and so I asked her if she sold any. She said she did and handed me a litre bottle of ice cold water. She refused money and said, "It's hot and you must drink." Her English was really very good. We got talking and I learned that her name is Anna and she'll be studying in Newcastle next year. She asked me to sit down and I met her father and grandmother. We had a good chat, and they were very interested in my route. But they warned me that unless I was prepared to take a very long detour, there was no way of crossing the river: the bridge marked on my map doesn't exist. The only way I could cross the river, they said, was by taking the motorway. "We often see cyclists on that motorway - it's safe." I'm sure they were right. But I'd had a number of scary moments last year in Italy when I found myself on motorways by accident and I didn't want to repeat the experience. The only alternative was the train. And it just so happened there was a train station only ten kilometres away.Anna found out the time the next train left and phoned up the train station to see if I could put my bike on the train. Her father had told me that I would only find a camping site in Katerini - so, as it was now 5 in the afternoon and Katerini was about 50 kms away I decided to use the train not just to cross the river but to complete that part of the trip.

Anna with her father and grandmother

So, thanks to the kindness of Anna and her father, I'm tonight sleeping in a very quiet campsite under the shadow of Mount Olympus.
Tomorrow will be another rest day. The ride to Metora is likely to be very hard work and I have to start it in the best conditions possible. Today was easy cycling and I don't feel tired. But I did get to the campsite late and, as I said at the beginning of the blog, I must take it easy and take no risks. So another day of being "normal" on the horizon. At least I get to have a lie-in!

Mount Olympus from the roadside at Paralia

Looking towards the pass that I will have to climb

Day 5: Zografou - Néa Kalikratia

View Day 5: Zografou - Néa Kalikratia in a larger map

Distance - 101 km
Total distance - 317 km
Altitude Gain - 913 m

No broken tent poles and no punctures this morning! The day started with the last of the climbs of the Sithonia circuit. It wasn't very long but it was quite steep averaging around 8% - not the easiest way to start the day! In Nikiti I stopped off at the little fried food place where I was well looked after that day the heat really got to me. The guy greeted me like a long lost friend and served me a portion of Bougatsa, a typical breakfast for the area made of puff pastry with cream sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. I've also developed a taste for "frappé" - ice cold coffee. It's really refreshing.

A view of the Aegean from Fteroti

After my little breakfast break, it was time to face the main road to Néa Moudania. As I expected, it was a lot busier on the other side of the road. But it was still really busy on my side and I was sure happy that I was wearing my high-viz flourescent yellow cycling shirt. It'd certainly be difficult to not notice me, but I did need to use my horn a couple of times to avert cars that were about to pull out in front of me. However, just like the last time, the drivers were very respectful and gave me plenty of room. And the fruit seller? He was there, sitting on his chair in the shade waiting for customers. I stopped, gave him a toot with my horn. He shouted "Hi" and tried to communicate something to me. But I couldn't cross the road as the traffic was endless. I just signed that I couldn't come over and waved goodbye. I would have liked to greet him properly, but to attempt to do so would have been dangerous. Besides, I really didn't want to have to carry another bag of fruit!
After lunch, clouds started forming and it looked like it might rain. It didn't, but the temperature dropped significantly and, for the first time since I arrived in Greece, dipped below 30°C in the shade. This made the rest of the ride considerably more comfortable.
I hadn't noticed last time, but the coast road from Néa Moudina has good views on Mount Olympus (how could I not have seen Mount Olympus? Quite simply because it was behind me!) But that's the only thing that I found of particular interest on this road. The countryside isn't really pretty, you rarely see the sea and the road surface is very poor in places.

There are lots of little shrines like these dotted along the road. You can just see Olympus in the backround

In the early afternoon I was back at the campsite and reunited with my passport. I hope it won't be too noisy tonight. But judging by the volume of the music that's already booming away, I think I might be in for a hard night.

Day 4: Edia - Zografou

View Day4: Elia - Zografou in a larger map

Distance -83 km
Total Distance - 216 km
Altitude Gain - 1373 m


Well, yesterday was a nice easy day! I spent most of my time doing not very much at all. I guess that's what makes the ideal holiday for most "normal"people. I confess it was rather nice - but towards the end of the day I was starting to get bored with "normal" and I was studying the maps, thinking about the cycling in the days to come. It reminded me a bit of when I was stuck in a campsite in Narbonne waiting for the wind to calm down enough for me to be able to continue to Barcelona. Or that time when I was stuck with Paddy in a tent in Scotland. Remember that, Pad? I'm sure you do! This time, at least, the weather was very nice - and I did stay put by choice.
In the evening I went back to the campsite cantine - and tried communicating everything in Greek. Actually, I think that trying to make any progress in this language is as big a challenge as cycling in Greece in the middle of summer. But my efforts are very slowly starting to bear fruit. The waitress complimented me on my accent. She then rattled off a load of stuff I couldn't understand. She knew she'd lost me. Perhaps that's why she brought me another gift - more yoghurt! Home-made yoghurt apparently - at least I think that's what I think she said. I was able to finish it without feeling ill - so progress there! Maybe it was because it wasn't pure yoghurt but tzatzigi. Well, I conquered that challenge - but I certainly wouldn't order tzatziki in any restaurant, anywhere!
I woke up this morning at 5am. However I didn't set off until 8am. It usually takes me around 2 hours to get myself and all my kit ready - and now I have to follow my physio-therapist's orders and spend twenty minutes every morning stretching. But I had two issues this morning. For one thing one of my *#!@ tent poles snapped. This happened last year - twice. It's a very light-weight tent - it's also supposed to be very strong. But however strong it is when it's up, it's no use to me if there's a 25% chance that one of the tent poles will snap while I'm putting it up or taking it down. I've fixed the problem temporarily with a small piece of metal tube I'd taken with me. But if it happens again I could end up without a roof over my head. With any luck it should all hold until I get back to Thessaloniki. I'm sure that nice man in the camping shop will be able to help me!
I was already fuming over this, when I noticed the second incident: the front wheel had a puncture again! Now this really wasn't funny! I don't mind the odd puncture, it's an unfortunate fact of cycling, and takes only a few minutes to sort out. But two in 50 kms on the same tyre! Smells of something sharp stuck in the tyre - but I'd already checked for this. So I took the tyre off, checked again, found nothing again, and mended the puncture. It was only small, so I guess I must have pinched the inner tube when I changed it the last time I had a puncture.
As soon as I started on my route, I noticed that the character of the scenery was changing from pleasant to very beautiful. It really was fine cycling this morning - I was so glad I hadn't abandonned the Sithonia tour like I was thinking of doing when I learned I had to go back and get my passport.

Looking across the Kolpos Kassandras

The photo just doesn't do this lovely view justice. Nice bike, though!

I stopped off in this supermarket in the middle of nowhere. The owners are very friendly and the place stocks everything from climbing ropes to toilet paper

After lunch, I threw caution to the winds and continued cycling at the hottest time of day. The route looked flat on the map and I really wanted to go as far as possible so as to not be on that very busy Néa-Moudania - Nikiti road I took the other day too late tomorrow (I've been warned that it could be even busier than the last time I took it as it's Saturday tomorrow - but I suspect most of the traffic will be going in the opposite direction.) I was wrong about the road being flat - it was hillier than the road I'd taken in the morning! But, despite the heat I was fine. Nevertheless, I stopped early in the afternoon as I didn't want to push my luck with my back too much with all the climbing I'd done during the day.
Today was certainly the best cycling I've done for a while. The views on the mighty Mount Athos were simply stunning, the hills were exhilarating and once more I've met some very friendly people. Also, the fact that my back doesn't hurt after this tough day proves to me once and for all that cycling really doesn't aggravate my back pain.
Tomorrow I will change my route (cutting out one of the mountains) and will head back to Néa Kalliktatia to pick up my passport. Maybe I'll get some more fruit on the way!

Mount Athos

Day 3 - Rest

I woke up late this morning, but the lie-in was worth it as I felt very refreshed. The first thing I did was to try to trace my passport. The campsite receptionist was very kind and found the phone number of the campsite I'd stayed at the night before and phoned them up. The passport was indeed there - huge relief! So I arranged with them to collect it when my tour of Sithonia is finished.
I looked at the weather forecast for today and saw that it wasn't going to be as hot as yesteray (only 33°C!) But I decided to stay here all the same. By the time I'd finished looking for my passport and had breakfast (mosly fruit!) it was nearly 10 am. Given that it takes around an hour to prepare everything, I decided that I'd be better off staying here rather than leaving when the sun is nearly at its hottest. Besides, I did promise myself a rest - acclimatizing from Picardy to Greece was never going to be easy - I knew that. Also, it is very windy today - but maybe that's normal in Sithonia during the summer. So, I intend to spend the rest of the day reading.
By the way, concerning driving in Greece. I had heard lots of reports about bad Greek drivers. I have indeed seen some bad driving - especially in Thessaloniki. However, so far I can confirm what I'd read in other cycling blogs - Greek drivers do seem much less aggressive and much more considerate towards cyclists than the Italians, for instance. Yesterday, for example, I was on a very busy and fast road for over 30 kms. I didn't feel at all comfortable. But every single car and lorry that passed me gave me plenty of room - and there was no horn beeping. I hope it continues like that. Last year I was very pleasantly surprised by Italian drivers. But once in the south of Italy things changed for the worse and I felt several times that I was in a dangerous situation. I hope that doesn't happen again this year.

Day 2 Néa Kalikratia - Elia

View Day 2 Néa Kalikratia - Mitari in a larger map

Distance - 82 km
Total distance - 132 km
Altitude Gain - 782 m

Slept badly last night. The camp site was very noisy with people talking loudly into the early hours. But I didn't mind. It was families on holiday. Not everyone  wants to wake up at the crack of dawn when they' re on holiday! Maybe you're right Richard - perhaps I am nuts after all!
I got up at 5am but didn't get going until 8am. It's been a hard day. The weather was horrible - and I spent most of the afernoon sheltering from the sun. It was quite hilly too - with plenty of little 10%+ climbs for my amusement. I don't mind hills - in fact I adore them - but climbing in the heat is hard going. Also, my bags were much heavier today as my paniers were (are still) stuffed full of fruit. There's a story behind this:
At midday, I pulled up into a layby to seek some shade. There was one of those people who you see so often in the Meditarrean countries that sell fruit by the side of the road. He must have realised I was hot because he gave me a plumb, then a pear, then he got me to taste some olives (delicious - and I'm not usually keen on olives) and then he took a bag and started filling it with the most delicious fruit. I felt a bit awkward. For one thing: how was I going to carry all that fruit? For another, street fruit sellers can't exactly be rolling in money. So I thanked him and gave him 5 euros. I shouldn't have - for then he went round his stall and started filling my bag with even more fruit! Now I have enough fruit for a week and it's all very ripe. I'll never finish it all before it goes off! And I can't even make a fruit salad or a crumble with the left-overs! Anyway, I said goodbye to this very jovial man - but only went 10 metres before I realised there was no air in my front tyre. Whether it was the weight of all that fruit or the very bad road surface, I had my first puncture thus far in my trip. I whisked the wheel off my bike and did all the necessary - under the bemused eyes of the fruit seller (who probably hasn't ever changed an inner tube in his life!) He helped me as well as he could by holding the bike still and offering words of encouragement (most of which I didn't understand). He really was a character that fruit seller. I'll never forget him.

A common sight on Greek roads. The fruit is wonderful!

Mr Happy at work!

Unfortunately, the day finished on a bad note. When I checked in at this camping site, I realised that I' ve somehow lost my passport. I can't imagine how. I put it in an ultra safe place - a pocket I only open when I really need to, and which never leaves my person. I can only imagine that the campsite I went to yesterday didn't give it back to me and I was too tired to notice. I do hope it's that - otherwise it might mean a trip to the British Consulate in Athens. Maybe the heat got to me and I did something stupid? It's possible too. Unfortunately, when you're long-distance cycling, just like when you're backpacking, it's all too easy for this sort of thing to happen - especially when you're solo.
Tomorrow I might just stay here. I feel I need a rest - I still haven't finished rehydrating, for example, despite having drunk several litres of water. The camping site is very clean and the setting is gorgeous. Besides, I'm going to have to get to the bottom of this passport buisness.
By the way: just passed a lovely evening in the  campsite tavern. Best pork chop I've ever tasted. And Retsina is definetely something I could get used to. And I got another present - yoghurt dribbled in honey. I tried it - honest I did - but yoghurt is the one thing I cannot stand. The waitress wasn't offended - she just found my attempts to explain in Greek very funny!

A view taken near the campsite

Day 1: Thessaloniki - Néa Kalikrátia

View Day 1: Thessaloniki - Néa Kalikrátia in a larger map

Distance: 50 km
Total Distance: 50 km
Altitude Gain: 388 m

I slept very well last night. After a long day and enjoyable evening waking around Thessaloniki, I was totally shattered. This morning I still had slight back-ache, but it passed once I'd done my stretching exercises. After breakfast, I set off to a camping store I'd noticed the evening before to get some gas, tent pegs (I always forget something!) and a sun hat. There I was to have another one of those 'encounters' that make cycle touring such a pleasure. The shop owner was really such a lovely, warm man. He was fascinated by my tour and also by my English! He really didn't imagine I was English - must be something to do with my suntan! As a present, he gave me a little but very sharp penknife. Don't know how he knew I needed one!

The White Tower in Thessaloniki. The observant of you will notice it isn't white. However it was once painted white. It has also been called The Tower of Blood - a name which gives a hint of some of the sinister things that used to happen there.

After that I made my way back to the bike shop and checked the directions with an elderly chap I saw. He explained, and then insisted on jumping into his car and showing me the way! It must have been quite commical seeing an old VW Beetle leading a bicycle through Thessaloniki! After about 3 kms of side-streets I was back outside the bike shop. I bid my farewells to my guide and made my way back to see the very rightly named 'bike doctor'. I hope I don't embarass him by saying this, but 'bike god' is what I'd call him. I've never met a more skilled bike mechanic. Anyway, I got my helmet back, was given some tools that were missing in my kit (!), said warm goodbyes and I was off (by the way Stelios - the garage gave me my money back for the wrong oil no probs. Thanks for the letter explaining that it was the wrong sort).
I didn't get very far today. It was a late start and it was really hot - with temperatures getting up to 40°C I had to take it real easy. 

Quelle horreur! Far too hot for cycling!

Every cycling blog of Greece I've seen has a photo of a bike in front of some signs written in the Greek. Here's mine!

Thessaloniki

After a very long and tiring day, I at last made it to Thessaloniki. I was very worried about today. Quite apart from the incertitude concerning my bike (they took it, although the lady at the check-in desk had to ask her supervisor as the bike wasn't in a bag) I was worried about all the lifting that I'd have to do in the airport but also just preparing my bags yesterday. I'm pleased to report that I've got through it all with only a slight back pain - it'll probably be gone by tomorrow. The bike survived the journey with hardly a scratch despite some very brutal treatment. I spent half of yesterday afternoon wrapping it in pipe cladding and loads of bubble wrap. Good job too - some of the lagging had clearly received a nasty shock.

Bike padded and packed and ready to go! For the outgoing trip, I simply used pipe cladding and lots of bubble wrap

My bike at the airport after removing the padding. It arrived in almost perfect condition. Bubble wrap and pipe cladding rock!

After over an hour unwrapping the bike and putting it back together - and getting scowled at by the cleaner - I set off...and immediately faced two problems. First, the shoe clips I installed last night didn't fit the pedals (despite the assurance from a witless Decathlon salesman that they were compatible) and secondly my chain felt very rough. Fortunately, there was a big bike shop very close to the airport. And what a friendly place it was! It turned out that my chain was worn out. The guy (who everyone calls the "Doctor") changed it, put the right toe clips on my shoes, and spent over an hour giving my bike the best service it's ever had - and all for free! He charged me for the chain and clips but would't have me paying hor his time. He even offered me a drink...and gave me a big can of oil because I forgot to bring some! The only thing is I forgot my helmet there - so tomorrow I'll go back.

The Motion Bike shop near Thessaloniki airport was a real life saver

So far I haven't seen much of Thessaloniki. It's big and seems very pleasant. It's also very hot. Perhaps I'll have time to have a look later. But first I have to get my bags organised. I didn't have time yesterday - I just threw everything in my paniers and went to bed. Didn't get any sleep though - I was too busy worrying about carrying my bags and being refused at the airport!

The 'Doc' at work on my bike.

Introduction

Welcome to my first ever blog! I chose to communicate this way because it is easy and fast. Also, I can publish photos and even videos - something that is very difficult, if not impossible, with emails.
To see a map of my intended route, click this link. Just how much of this I can do depends on my back - of course. I may have to abandon some of the climbs - or even abandon the whole ride altogether. We'll see.
Anyway, a comment about the route. On Monday I will simply cycle from the airport to my hotel in Thessaloniki. I will spend the rest of the day exploring the city, which is apparently very pleasant. It's one of the oldest cities in the world, so there should be a lot of interesting things to see. My tour proper will begin the day after.
First of all, I will do a ride round Chalkidiki and Sithonia. Apparently, this part of Greece is very beautiful -  I have  been warned that I might want to abandon the rest of my tour and stay there! The first couple of days will be mostly flat, which will give me the opportunity to acclimatize and find my cycling legs (I haven't been able to do much training.) There is a mountain to climb on the way back to Thessaloniki. This will help me to test how my back copes with a real climb and help to prepare me for the bigger ascents later on. It's only 600 metres, but I might need to abandon it and go back to Thessaloniki along the coast.
From Thessaloniki I will start to make my way to Kalampaka and Meteora. As you can see, the road is steep and the climb is quite long. This will probably be the hardest part of my journey and also the riskiest. I may very well have to take the train to Meteora - we'll see...But I'm determined to get there - Meteora really is an amazing sight and I don't want to miss it (it's where the backround photo of this blog was taken). See here for more information.
Finally, from Meteora I will head south toward Delphi. There are many tough sections here too - and the final climb to Delphi will probably be very steep. From Delphi, I will probably go to Patras - I don't think I will go to Athens as indicated on the map. I expect that I will finish the tour in Patras and then take the ferry to wherever Joan's parents are on their boat.